We were supposed to be celebrating our 40th birthdays and 10th wedding anniversary. The hiking boots had been bought. They’d been worn in. The route had been planned. The kids were staying with my parents. Then Covid happened.

Like so many people, our carefully planned trip disappeared overnight.

Two years later we finally got another chance. The itinerary changed slightly, but this time there was one major difference: the kids were coming too.

And honestly? I’m glad they did.

What followed was two unforgettable weeks travelling through Arizona, Utah and Nevada in the biggest RV Cruise America had available. When I say big, I mean properly big. Roughly the size of our lounge.

There was absolutely no chance I was driving it. Sorry Alex.

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Learning to Drive a House Through the Desert

After landing in Las Vegas we stayed overnight at Sunset Station in Henderson, close to the Cruise America depot.

The following afternoon we collected our giant house on wheels.

Cruise America collections typically take place later in the day, so by the time we’d completed the paperwork, stocked up on food and worked out which cupboard contained what, it was already getting late.

That was exactly why I’d planned our first stop to be Lake Mead, only around 45 minutes away. If you follow the Cruise America suggested itinerary they suggest driving the loop the opposite way around which would have been a 3 hour drive to Zion on the first day. Unless you are paying hundreds of pounds extra for the early pick up service, this is not really practical. This turned out to be one of the best decisions of the whole trip.

Rather than attempting a long drive while learning how to operate a nine-metre motorhome on the wrong side of the road, we had a gentle introduction to RV life.

When we arrived at Lake Mead, the lake levels were noticeably low and the shoreline was much further away than expected, but the sunset was beautiful and we spent the evening figuring out how everything worked without the pressure of a long drive.

A small victory for day one.

Straight to the Big one

The next morning we headed towards the Grand Canyon. One thing I would say to anyone planning this route is don’t underestimate the distances. On a map, everything looks reasonably close together. In reality, America is huge and the drive never seemed to end. Especially when you’re driving a vehicle with the turning circle of a small cruise ship. It didn’t help our driving time that we had to keep stopping at insanely stunning viewpoints every 5 minutes! Nothing prepares you for seeing the Grand Canyon for the first time. Even though we arrived at the campsite quite late in the day, we jumped on the free shuttle bus straight to one of the viewpoints in time to catch the sunset over the Canyon! The orange hues shifting across the canyon were quite a sight… we were speechless…

Photographs simply don’t convey the sheer scale of it.

You stand on the rim looking across layer after layer of rock disappearing into the distance and your brain struggles to process what you’re seeing.

We spent two nights here, giving us plenty of time to explore viewpoints and tackle part of the Bright Angel Trail. If you’re an avid hiker you will need more time as there are so many amazing hikes and trails to explore.

Originally, Alex and I had imagined much longer hikes before children joined the itinerary. At the time, the kids were only six and nine, so we adjusted our expectations accordingly. This was where Sofia discovered her secret weapon. Whenever her legs started getting tired, we told her to press her belly button and activate her “go faster energy button.”

Remarkably, this worked.

Energy button: activated.

She transformed from exhausted child into mountain goat and powered back up the trail so quickly that we actually climbed out faster than we’d walked down. From that moment onwards, the energy button became part of family legend. (It ended up being renamed as explained later in the story).

Tours from Las Vegas

Sandstorms, Speedboats and Antelope Canyon

Our next stop was Lake Powell, where we stayed for three nights. After several days of hiking, it was nice to slow the pace slightly.

We hired a small motorboat and, thanks to my previous experience driving my dad’s boat, I was officially promoted to captain for the day.

We spent hours exploring hidden corners of the lake, swimming in the cool water and enjoying the sunshine. As we got back to the Marina, we noticed the sky turning a rather concerning shade of brown. A sandstorm was heading directly towards us. Unfortunately we still had a fair walk back to the RV site.

A friendly local spotted our struggle and kindly rescued us in his pickup truck before the storm completely engulfed us. Trust me when I say a proper desert sandstorm is not something you want to experience on foot.

The following day was much calmer and gave us time to enjoy a swim, a barbecue and one of those perfect evenings with a campfire and starlit sky.

Antelope Canyon

I’d seen countless photographs before visiting, but walking through it was something else entirely. The sandstone twists and flows like liquid. Light filters through from above creating incredible shapes, colours and shadows. It felt less like a canyon and more like a giant natural sculpture carved over thousands of years.

This was where I captured the photographs that later inspired my Red Rock Horizons wall art collection.

Red Rock Horizons Collection

As if the day wasn’t memorable enough, something completely ridiculous happened while we were there. The RV was parked in a car park so enormous it could probably host its own airport. There wasn’t another vehicle anywhere near us. When we returned, there was a note under the windscreen wiper. Someone had crashed into our RV and broken a headlight. How anybody managed to hit a stationary motorhome in an otherwise empty car park remains one of life’s great mysteries. At least they left their details.

Antelope Canyon Tours

Riding Through Monument Valley With the Navajo

The drive to Monument Valley felt like entering a film set!

Gradually the iconic mesas began appearing on the horizon, rising dramatically from the desert floor.

We stayed at Goulding’s Resort, which was perfect for families. It had full RV facilities, incredible views and, perhaps most importantly according to the children, a swimming pool.

The first evening introduced us to the legendary Navajo Taco. If you’ve never tried one, you should.

The Navajo Taco was delicious (taken before I got the hang of photographing food more aesthetically)

The following morning brought one of my favourite experiences of the entire holiday. Months before travelling I’d arranged a horse riding excursion with a local Navajo family. Standing outside a petrol station waiting for our pickup, I wondered whether I’d misunderstood the arrangements. Then I realised the dusty, battered pickup truck with the cracked windscreen parked nearby was actually our transport.

Within twenty minutes we were bouncing across desert tracks towards a small ranch surrounded by some of the most spectacular scenery imaginable. The horses were hardy, shaggy and perfectly adapted to life in the desert.

My horse was called Mustang, Max rode Silver, Alex had Baxter and Sofia was paired with Little Warrior.

The name suited her perfectly, and it stuck for the rest of the trip. From then on, the energy button became the Little Warrior button — and it worked just as well.

For two hours we rode through landscapes that looked straight out of a western movie.

The terrain was rocky, steep in places and breathtakingly beautiful. I’ll admit there was a tiny part of me hoping for a dramatic gallop into the sunset. Instead we plodded along at a leisurely pace and I was glad the kids were competent riders from lessons back home.

It remains one of the most memorable travel experiences I’ve ever had.

Baxter, Silver, Little Warrior and Mustang

Before leaving Monument Valley we made one final detour. Forrest Gump Point. Technically it was twenty minutes in the wrong direction, but after travelling all this way, not stopping felt impossible.

So yes, I ran down the road. Yes, people probably thought I was ridiculous. And yes, it was completely worth it.

Forrest Gump Point, Monument Valley

Bryce Canyon Deserves More Attention

Bryce Canyon was the destination that surprised me most. Everyone talks about the Grand Canyon. Far fewer people talk about Bryce and they should.

Walking among the famous hoodoos feels like exploring another planet.

Towering orange rock formations rise all around you, changing shape and colour as you move through the canyon.

We stayed at Ruby’s Inn RV Park, which was conveniently located near the park entrance and gave us access to additional facilities including a swimming pool.

The campsite itself was surrounded by trees, providing some welcome shade after the desert landscapes we’d become used to. The children spent their downtime inventing a game called “Ant Gladiators.” (No ants were harmed during these activities)

After a full day of hiking we found a traditional steakhouse nearby and enjoyed one of the best ribeye steaks we’ve ever eaten. Exactly what was needed after miles on the trails.

Rivers, Cliffs and the Best Water We’ve Ever Tasted

Our final national park stop was Zion. The scenery changed again. The desert gradually gave way to greener landscapes, rivers and towering cliffs.

The drive into the area was probably the most nerve-racking of the trip. Narrower roads, tighter bends, steeper drops. Fortunately Alex had become remarkably confident driving our giant RV by this point.

Our campsite sat right beside the river, making it the perfect spot for evening barbecues and campfires while the kids skimmed stones across the water.

From there we used the shuttle system to explore the national park. Zion felt completely different to everywhere else we’d visited, lusher, greener, less harsh an environment.

If we return one day, the Narrows will be at the top of our list. At the time Sofia was just a little too young for us to feel comfortable tackling it, but it looks like an incredible experience.

One thing I still remember vividly is the spring water. After a warm day hiking, we discovered a drinking fountain and filled our bottles. It was genuinely some of the best-tasting water we’ve ever had. Sometimes it’s the little things you remember.

Finishing in Vegas Like Royalty

View of Las Vegas from Palazzo at the Venetian

After two weeks in an RV, returning to Las Vegas felt wonderfully decadent.

We stayed at the Palazzo at The Venetian in a two-bedroom executive suite I’d booked during lockdown at a price that would normally have been completely out of reach.

The kids were amazed. Two huge bedrooms, two enormous bathrooms with double doors and whirlpool baths. A view of the Strip. But their favourite feature? The electric curtains. Of course.

We spent our final days exploring the Strip, riding the rollercoaster at New York-New York, watching the Bellagio fountains and meeting Marvel characters that made Max’s year.

Meeting the Mandalorian and Grogu was every bit as exciting to him as the Grand Canyon. Possibly more, he was 10 what can I say?

The M&M’s store, ranked by the children as a genuine highlight of Las Vegas.

Our last morning we ordered a stupidly extravagant room service breakfast because we wanted to enjoy our wonderful suite for as long as possible!

Quick Itinerary Summary

Stop	Nights	Campsite / Hotel	Distance to Next Stop	Allow For in an RV
Las Vegas	1	Sunset Station, Henderson	30 miles	~1 hour
Lake Mead	1	Lake Mead RV Village	275 miles	~6 hours
Grand Canyon	2	Mather Campground	130 miles	~3.5 hours
Lake Powell	3	Wahweap RV & Campground	125 miles	~3.5 hours
Monument Valley	2	Goulding’s RV Park	275 miles	~5.5 hours
Bryce Canyon	2	Ruby’s Inn RV Park	85 miles	~3 hours
Zion	2	Zion Canyon Campground	165 miles	~3.5 hours
Las Vegas	2	Palazzo at The Venetian	—	Fly home

⭐ Favourite campsite: Zion Canyon Campground for its riverside location and easy shuttle access into the park.

⭐ Most memorable stay: Goulding’s RV Park, waking up surrounded by Monument Valley’s iconic mesas.

Would I Do It Again..?

Absolutely. Just not exactly the same route. I never do the same holiday twice and there is still so much more of Utah I’d love to explore and we could easily have continued north for another week or two. I would stop at Page to visit Antelope Canyon but wouldn’t stay as long at Lake Powell. The low water levels meant it wasn’t quite the “beach and swim” stop we expected it to be and the resort seems to be winding down somewhat from its heyday.

The problem with travel is the more places I see, the longer my list becomes. But for us, this wasn’t just a road trip. It was a delayed anniversary. A delayed birthday celebration. A family adventure we’d waited years to take. And one we’ll never forget.