Venice in January: Why a Winter Weekend Might Be the Best Way to See the City

When most people think of Venice, they picture summer sunshine, packed piazzas and queues stretching across St Mark’s Square. We did the opposite.

For my birthday, my husband and I took advantage of the Bournemouth to Venice flights that were running at the time and escaped for a long weekend in January. Three nights was just enough time to explore the city, eat far too much Italian food and remind ourselves why Venice remains one of the most unique places in Europe.

I’ve now visited Venice twice and if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that you don’t need a packed itinerary to enjoy it. Venice is at its best when you slow down, wander aimlessly and allow yourself to get lost, which thankfully is very easy to do.

Where We Stayed

Rather than staying right in the heart of the tourist centre, we chose the Hotel Nani Mocenigo Palace in the Dorsoduro district.

The hotel felt exactly how I imagined a Venetian palace should feel: elegant, opulent and full of classic Italian character, but without being stuffy or pretentious. The staff were incredibly friendly and the whole place felt relaxed despite its luxury surroundings. Personally, I’d stay in this area again. If you’re visiting Venice for the first time, don’t be put off by staying slightly outside the main tourist areas. Venice is very walkable and half the fun is discovering the little streets and canals between the major sights.

Not only do you get more for your money, but walking through the quieter backstreets and along the canals on your way to the main sights becomes part of the experience. Some of our favourite moments weren’t at famous landmarks at all, they were simply wandering through narrow streets and crossing little bridges with no particular destination in mind.

How to get around

To and from the airport I would highly recommend getting a water taxi - at least in one direction to experience it. You feel like you’re in a James Bond film and the typically Italian sleek mahogany boats that really shift full throttle! It’s fun! Prices range 165 - 200 euros each way per boat so it’s worth finding people to share with.
If your budget won’t stretch to that the very affordable Vaparetto (Water bus) will be a fraction of the cost but like buses, have a set route and timetable rather than being a direct premium service.

The Day We Found St Mark’s Square Underwater

One of my favourite memories was arriving at St Mark’s Square to discover it was flooded. Not just a few puddles to skip around. Proper flooding. This was not an isolated incident, it happens a lot in winter!

Luckily, Venice has a solution for everything. Within minutes we found ourselves buying the bright orange plastic pull-on wellies sold throughout the city and happily wading through the square with several other tourists. Fashionable? Absolutely not. Memorable? Definitely.

It’s one of those travel moments that brings a few more giggles to your day.

Is St Mark’s Square Worth Visiting?

Of course! But I’d avoid spending too much money there. If you’ve always dreamed of having a coffee in St Mark’s Square, go for it. Just be prepared for the bill.

We quickly discovered that a coffee costing around €10 in the square could cost closer to €2.50 just a few streets away.

My advice? See the square, admire the atmosphere and then wander into the surrounding streets for food and drinks. You’ll often find better value and a more authentic experience.

While you’re there, both St Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) are absolutely worth visiting. The architecture is incredible and they provide a fascinating insight into Venice’s history and wealth.

One thing I would definitely recommend is booking tickets in advance. The queues can be long, even during winter.

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A Different Side of Venice

Walk along the water left past Doge’s Palace, over a few little bridges for fantastic reasonably priced Pizza and Aperol spritz outside Hotel Gabrielli. We sat outside even in January overlooking the islands opposite.

From there, keep walking.

Most visitors turn back long before they reach the eastern edge of Venice, but if you’ve got the time it’s worth continuing towards the Giardini della Biennale.

The crowds gradually disappear, the pace slows down and suddenly you’re in a completely different Venice.

You’re surrounded by locals chatting in outdoor cafés as though they have nowhere else to be. People are working, going about their day, making deliveries of fresh produce to little corner restaurants or spending their lunch break catching up over a coffee.

Not a single tourist taking a selfie.

One of the things I love most about Italy is that Italians seem to have mastered something many of us struggle with: enjoying the moment.

Have some food. Have something to drink. Sit outside. Watch the world go by. Simple.

Where to Eat in Venice

If you’re looking for authentic local food, I’d recommend heading towards Cannaregio.

As Venice’s largest residential district, it feels very different from the busy streets around St Mark’s Square. People actually live here, work here and go about their daily lives, which gives the area a much more genuine feel than some of the city’s main tourist hotspots.

The district is known for its historic Jewish Quarter, quiet canals and relaxed canal-side walkways lined with traditional bacari (Venetian wine bars) and restaurants. It’s a great place to stop for a spritz and some cicchetti while watching everyday Venetian life unfold around you.

We found the seafood excellent, the prices generally more reasonable and the atmosphere far more relaxed than the centre of Venice. If you’re prepared to wander a little further, it’s well worth adding to your itinerary.

The Birthday Treat That Was Worth Every Penny

I’m normally happy saving money where it doesn’t affect the experience. I’ll happily walk a bit further for a cheaper coffee. I’ll happily stay slightly outside the centre if it means better value. But sometimes spending more is completely justified. For my birthday, we treated ourselves to a seven-course tasting menu with paired wines at Bistrot de Venise. Exceptional doesn’t really do it justice. Every course was beautifully presented, the food was outstanding and the sommelier’s knowledge was genuinely impressive. Each wine pairing felt carefully chosen and enhanced the meal perfectly. It wasn’t cheap. I wouldn’t do it every night. But for a special occasion it was worth every euro. If you’re celebrating a birthday, anniversary or simply want one unforgettable meal during your trip, this would be my recommendation.

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Should You Take a Gondola Ride?

Simple answer - Yes. I know they’re touristy. I know they’re expensive. I know everyone says they’re a cliché. Do it anyway. Seeing Venice from the water is part of the experience and many of the smaller canals are inaccessible any other way. Some of the most beautiful parts of the city are hidden away from the main streets and a gondola gives you a completely different perspective. I’d suggest booking in advance through a reputable operator rather than negotiating on the day. You’ll usually get a clearer idea of what you’re paying for and avoid any surprises.

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The One Thing I Still Haven’t Done

Despite visiting Venice twice, I still haven’t made it to Murano or Burano. I’m beginning to suspect I’ll need a third visit. What a shame. If you’re visiting Venice for longer than a weekend, I’d definitely consider taking a day trip to both islands. Murano is famous for its glassmaking and Burano for its colourful houses.

A small group boat tour is probably the easiest way to see both in one day.

My Final Thoughts on Venice

Venice isn’t a city I’d rush. Don’t try to tick off every attraction. Don’t spend your entire trip queuing. Don’t stress about following a perfect itinerary. See St Mark’s Basilica. Visit Doge’s Palace. Take a gondola ride. Eat great food. Drink good wine. Then spend the rest of your time getting gloriously lost. Because years later, I don’t remember every museum or church we visited. I remember the flooded square. The bright orange wellies. The quiet canals. The birthday dinner. And sitting outside with an Aperol Spritz in January pretending winter didn’t exist. That’s Venice at its best after all, that’s what Italians do best and you know the saying.. when in Rome… no wait, that’s another Blog! My “When in Rome…” blog is coming soon!